An El Paso burrito is a thing of beauty: long, slim and tautly rolled, filled with succulent guisados like chicharrón or barbacoa, or maybe huevos con winnie (scrambled eggs with sliced hot dog). The best come bundled in sturdy, ultra-fresh flour tortillas and wrapped in heat-preserving tinfoil, details that evoke the handiwork of a doting Mexican mother. In their elegance and economy—and their remarkable distillation of regional foodways encompassing Chihuahuan, New Mexican, and Anglo-Texan influences—burritos from the El Paso-Ciudad Juarez borderlands are unsurpassed.